The amazing thing about surfing, is that you only have the wave…
You own the moment…
You master the present time…
In a few seconds, you have all that is going for you everything and all that is going against you; you sum together your mind, body and soul to seize the opportunity that you behold. You accept you are the master of the wave and a slave to its power and force.
It doesn’t get much closer to this in real life!
Kelly Slater on owning the moment:
“I think the real Zen of surfing for me, it’s just an in the moment thing completely, as the wave presents itself, you deal with what’s possible, and what is asked of you to do…you find that line, you find the timing…when you do a flip at one section, it just sets you up for the next section perfectly.
There is a connection between people and the environment…that when its done the right way, when you someone link things together on a wave the right way, its like that thing already existed, that’s exactly what was supposed to happen”
Courtesy of “Kelly Slater: Mind Body Surf: Mind Episode” by Quiksilver
Copyright © SoulSurfer 21 September 2011 at 8.42pm
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